Intro to Thai Food

If the scenery, people, and way of life are not enough to make someone love Thailand, the cuisine would likely tip the balance. Naturally, there is a plethora of websites and blogs devoted to Thai food. Despite this, I felt compelled to add my own.

There are significant differences between Thai food in North America and in Thailand. Fortunately for me, someone else did the writing already (click here). The writer refers to American Thai food, but what's identified also applies to what is served in Canada. Despite the differences, there is a lot of great Thai food in North America. In fact, the best Panang curries I've had were in Toronto. There is a popular saying here: "same same, but different. Such is my assessment of North American Thai food in a nutshell. 

For some reason, the more modest the vendor (e.g. street food) the better the food tastes. The busiest "restaurants" are usually small garage-type establishments with someone cooking out front or mobile food stands on the sidewalk, surrounded by plastic stools and folding tables. I've been to many such places, and I'm baffled by this win-win situation, as these options are both the cheapest and tastiest. It's a paradox—or a "cosmetic mystery," as one writer puts it. 

Coming from Canada, I'm naturally inclined to consider the risks of eating in places that are less than sanitary, but I quickly ate my way though that barrier. Food-born illness is always a concern in countries with very limited food safety regulations, but from what I've gathered so far, the risk is relatively low here. Perhaps the spices kill off the bad stuff.  

There is one thing that all restaurants and vendors seem to have in common: fresh ingredients. Thailand has an abundance of locally-grown fruits and vegetables. This is partially why it's so difficult to find bad food here (unless you get western food). In Chiang Mai, there is a massive produce market which is busiest around 4am. At this time, vendors or their respective suppliers pick up what is needed for the day. At all hours, there are trucks full of produce coming in from the nearby mountains and countryside. Although, I'm not yet sure where the meat comes from, many of the dishes here are not meat-heavy. In fact, meat seems like an afterthought in some dishes. 


Below are some of my favourite dishes:

Phat Thai / Pad Thai

This is the classic Thai dish that is very popular both here and in North America.  It's a simple mix of noodles, sauce, sprouts, peanuts, egg, lime, and a few variables (e.g. dried shrimp, chicken, tofu).  The picture below is from a vendor I visit often. It costs $1 Canadian, and it is by far the best I've ever had. I'm always amazed by the fact that the woman who makes it (who I think is the happiest person on earth) whips up every dish in about 30 seconds. 

Phat Si Io / Pad Si Io

A friend introduced me to this on my first day in Chiang Mai, and I think I've had it a dozen times since. It consists of wide rice noodles, soy sauce, egg, greens, and meat (usually chicken or pork). It's quickly stir-fried into a mess of awesomeness.

Phanaeng Curry/ Panang Curry

This is basically chicken in a spicy peanut sauce. Oddly, I have yet to have a panang in Thailand that is comparable to the versions available at home (i.e. chicken drowning in delicious thick sauce). For now, I'll keep the faith and stay on the hunt for the best panang. 

Khao Man Gai

This literally translates to "chicken on rice." Right before I edited and posted this blog, a local friend took me out to try the dish. I was eager to get back and add it to this entry. 

As mentioned above, meat is not the highlight of many Thai dishes, and khao man gai is a perfect example of this. From what I've been told, the rice in any good khao man gai involves a complex cooking process similar to that of risotto. Stir frying and broth are involved, but I'm not yet sure what else the local places do to get it right. Whatever the cooks do, the intended result is creamy flavourful rice. If overcooked, it's considered unacceptable and won't be served. This dish, as well as many others, is served with a bowl of chicken broth and some kind of amazing sauce. Once again, this masterpiece set me back one dollar.

Khao Soi

This is the godfather of northern Thai dishes. It consists of soft noodles on the bottom, crispy noodles on top, a thick spicy coconut broth, and some pickled veggies on the side. Often there will be a chicken drumstick or two in the bowl. The common belief is that this is a Burmese dish that has been refined in northern Thailand, but not everyone agrees. Regardless of its origins, Chiang Mai is famous for this dish—if you've been here and haven't tried this, you should be ashamed of yourself.  

There are a few khao soi places in Chiang Mai that are literally famous throughout the country. The second picture below shows one of them. It seems that every Thai person in the city has been there, and the restaurant has also served the former prime minister and several celebrities (there are faded pictures on the wall to prove it).  Once again, it's another one of the many amazing, modest-looking establishments. I just wonder if the politicians and celebrities all sat on the plastic stools too.   

Many khao soi places also serve moo sa-te, a great companion to the mighty bowl.  It's basically tender bbq pork skewer, served with a peanut sauce and cucumber salad. 

Khao soi and moo sa-te.  This highly coveted combination went for about $2.75 Canadian.

In this country, appearances can be deceiving, but the situation was obvious in this case. If a humble-looking restaurant attracts customers who drive luxury cars, something good is happening.  

Cold Spring Rolls

These are ubiquitous in Thailand, and some of the best I've had were from my beloved roadside vendors. 

Cold veggie rolls from a Bangkok market. The sauce is a heavenly concoction of spices.

Many countryside resorts have on-site farms, and their restaurants serve the food they grow.  This is the result (excluding the french fries). 

Mango Sticky Rice

I was introduced to this on my second day in Chiang Mai, and was nearly driven to tears by how good it was. It consists of a fresh mango, sticky rice, some crispy things, and a sweet coconut milk mixture. Something divine happens when it's all stirred together. 

When it starts raining in a couple of months, the mangoes will be even better. 

Breakfast of champions. 

Som Tam  (Green Papaya Salad)

CNN listed this as one of the world's most delicious foods. I agree, but think it should be a bit higher than #46 out of 50. 

Som Tam and a Winnie the Pooh table cloth—next level dining experience. 

Stay tuned...