Everything Except Duct Tape: My Journey Through a Local Market

I’m no stranger to Asian Markets.  Between India, China, Taiwan, and Thailand, I’ve been to a dozen or so. Each one seems to have its own appeal:  Bazaars in Jaipur are known for textiles and jewellery, the Dong Hua Men night market in Beijing is popular among tourists for its wide selection of terrifying snacks, the Jimo Lu Market in Qingdao has fake everything (i.e. Timev watches, Brikeensotk sandals, NLKE shoes etc), markets throughout Taiwan are known for their unmatched potential to cause weight gain, and the markets in Bangkok (both day and night varieties) are enormous affairs at which you can purchase nearly anything you could possibly want for unbelievably low prices. These are just a few.

In front of my apartment in Chiang Mai, there is a daytime market that is set up and taken down every Saturday and Sunday. It only spans about block and a half, and is entirely on the roadside. Last weekend I paced this unnamed market and was overwhelmed by the ridiculously random variety of items for sale. This weekend I went with in with a mission: find some duct tape so I can patch a tear in my window screen (the mosquitoes here love me). 

In no particular order, here are some of the things I saw:

- fresh brewed coffee

- Sega Genesis consoles  (real and fake)

- switchblades

- an espresso stand that doubles as open-mic station (free to any musician who wants to jam)

- miscellaneous car parts

- biker vests

- instant coffee on ice  (shame, I know)

- ice cream

- bowie knives

- guitars, banjos, and musical accessories

- one snare drum (yes, just the one piece)

- Buddhist amulets  (about a third of the stands were selling these)

- fishing gear

- rotary phones

- fresh waffles

- military uniforms and accessories

- tools and power tools

- airsoft guns

- a booth featuring a suspiciously large selection of H&M pants, with tags still attached

- deep fried whole fish

- samurai swords

- polarized sunglasses

- “specially selected” used clothes. 

- local honey, sold in large whiskey bottles (the vendor’s sign, written in cardboard, said “satisfaction guarantee.” If the vendor is like most of the people in this city, she will stand by her word)

- fresh fruit

- vintage typewriters

- hand-made wooden lanterns

- energy drinks (sketchy 30 cent Thai ones)

- more samurai swords, switchblades, and bowie knives

- bicycle parts

- a man sitting down alone, blasting country music through a boom-box at his booth. The boom-box was the only item there, and it wasn't clear if he is selling it.

- vintage record players and other audio equipment

- live turtles

- sim cards

- sewing machines

- cacti

It seemed that there was everything but duct tape--or any other kind of tape. Alas, I resorted to going to the mighty 7-Eleven to buy a roll of green tape. I did, however, purchase a USA themed screwdriver for about a dollar at the market. I didn’t need it, but it’s good to have.  

*Despite the fact that I wanted visual reminders of everything listed above, it wouldn't be right of me to walk around the market taking pictures of things.  I just took a few. 

Check out the phone.

This hand-made distortion pedal is priced at $35.
At home this would cost five times that (used).  It actually sounds really good. I just may come back for it.

More Jamming at the espresso stand (see last week's post)

One dollar for this ironic gem--why not?

Intro to Life in Chiang Mai

I think I can get used to this place. The people are over-the-top friendly, there is always something to do, the pace of life is relaxed, there is amazing food everywhere, and it is very easy and to get around. 

Thailand is often called “the land of smiles,” although that is not true in all parts. Ethnic/religious conflict in border regions and the recent political protests challenge that notion. Chiang Mai, however, is likely the happiest, most “smiley” place in the country.  I’ve met people who have travelled throughout the Thailand, and they all seem to agree.  It's as if everyone willingly pays a kind of smile-tax to everyone else during nearly every interaction; at least that’s how my Canadianized brain interprets it. 

Fresh orange juice is just a short walk from my door, and it's
always served with a genuine smile.

There is a weekend market right outside my apartment.
One of the coffee stands also happens to be an open mic station.

The pace of life and the social priorities here help to explain the smiles.  Overall, people here are easy-going. Life is taken day-by-day (perhaps to an extreme).  One of the most commonly-used Thai words is "sabai," which means “relaxed/comfortable/easy-going.”   Just say it slowly—sabbbaaaiiii—and you just might feel more relaxed.    Perhaps we need an English equivalent. “Relax” and “chill” don’t have the same effect.   Chiang Mai is “sabai” in the truest sense. A friend of mine who previously lived here for several years says that this region has a very relationship-oriented culture, rather than the task-oriented culture that is most common in the west. People--both local and foreign--spend much more time socializing and eating together than what I've experienced in Canada. The "I'm too busy" excuse doesn't seem to work here.  Things still get done, but healthy relationships and social lives are a priority.

I can’t say enough about the food, so I’ll wait and dedicate a lengthy post to it—with lots of pictures of course.  For now I’ll say that in this city, you can count on finding great food virtually anywhere, from street vendors, to humble roadside shacks, to riverside restaurants. There are also high-end grocery stores for the more discerning clientele. In these places, you can find imported wines, fine cheeses, and even Canadian lobster. For now, I'll stick with the simple and affordable options (i.e. $1 for a meal). Cheap, good food is everywhere, and it's hazardous in a way. This is not because there is any danger in the food itself (if so, the spice probably takes care of that); it's the fact that sights, smells, and variety can make one eat excessively.  Fortunately, the weather here is ideal for walking.

There are other, more significant, hazards of course. They include the iffy sidewalks, which start, stop, and vary in elevation at random; the steep curbs, which stand at nearly a foot in height, and have a 70 degree slope; and the vehicles—particularly motorbikes—which, although they are relatively cautious of pedestrians, have been known cause some serious damage.

Aside from walking (and dodging motorbikes), my favourite mode of transportation is the Songthaew. These little red taxi-buses are extremely cheap, and are the safest, most affordable way to get around.  I went to a guitar shop about 20 minutes away for just over $1 Canadian.  When taking these, you can either get in the front with the driver, or hop on a bench in the back. Just don’t be surprised if the driver picks up other people who are going in your direction.  I see it as a great way to meet new people at random.  The first time I took a Songtaew, the driver made a detour and picked up his wife. On another occasion, a driver's daughter was napping in the passenger seat (equipped with pjs and a teddy bear).  Once again, relationships are a priority here. 

Another way to get around is the famous tuk-tuk. They’re small, agile, and kind of funky (many have flashing multi-colour party lights inside).  They’ll do whatever it takes to quickly get you where you need to go.

Songthaew

Tuk-tuk

I've spent most of me time in the city.  It's not a massive metropolis like Bangkok, but it's big enough. The city and surrounding area have a population of approximately 1 million people. There is also a sizeable population of western visitors here, but unlike in some of the southern cities and islands, most aren't here to party and take advantage of the country's relative lawlessness. They're here to hike the mountains, visit the elephant sanctuaries, and experience the "sabai-factor."  With an abundance of schools in the city, many are also here to teach English and/or learn Thai. 

The countryside is just a short drive from the city.  I'm there right now. A large group of us (friends and friends of friends) spontaneously booked a resort at the base of a mountain. There are huts and tents; I opted for a tent. The resort has a massive on-site garden, the produce of which is used in its hut-style restaurant. There is also live music during the afternoon and evening, regardless of how many guests are here.  We were the only ones, so technically we had a private concert. Coupled with a six dollar/hour massage, and an average north-American can live like a rock star out here.

Camping Thai style. 

Just a 25 minute drive out of the city

I've been able to do and see a lot in this first week, and I owe most of it to some friends from home who are living and teaching here for the year. They've shown me around, arranged for me to live in the same building, and introduced me to the administrators at an international school just steps from my door. 

This is my apartment building. It's similar to a guest-house/hotel.  My room includes

2 beds, a fridge, mini-kitchen, washroom, wifi, a/c (which I have yet to use),  and cable tv (what's that?).
For $185 Canadian per month, I think I can deal with it.  

Bangkok: February 8, 2014

I've arrived, and Bangkok is as beautifully chaotic as I expected.

After leaving the airport, I was told that I could not be driven to my hostel because it's in a barricaded area (see more about that below).  One taxi driver, however, agreed to drive me as close as he could, so I hopped in.  He seemed oddly calm while driving in the mess of traffic—often coming within an inch of other vehicles while weaving around them. He also did this while gulping a suspicious-looking energy drink, texting, and not wearing a seatbelt. I found this situation to be familiar and oddly comforting (India and China are similar in this regard). The driver and I were mutually ignorant of each others' languages, so we just spoke our own and hoped for the best. I talked about the weather; he talked about whatever he was compelled to discuss. It was a lovely conversation in its own way.

I was dropped off at the end of a long empty road. I immediately wished I had not packed a large luggage, as I had to wheel it into a protest zone with only an address to follow. Fortunately the people here are extremely friendly. Those who couldn't help went out of their way to find people who could.

I intentionally booked a hostel in the middle of a barricaded protest area (sorry mom).   The demonstration was actually very impressive--and like nothing I've ever seen.  Most of the protesters are in their 30s-50s, are over-the-top friendly--despite the fact that they are camped out here, sleeping on concrete.  They even set up security checkpoints so no crazies ruin the message. It got busier as the night went on. 

During the evening, I went out on the town with some new friends from the hostel. We expected the demonstration to be over when we got back, but is was still going. 

Here is one of the many security checkpoints in the protest zone.

I'm not sure what to think of the demonstrations, but I've asked around.  This link provides a good overview of the situation, and it's consistent with what people are saying here:
 http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-251494

Stay tuned....

UPDATE (Feb 10):  The protests are still going strong.  Demonstrations have been very peaceful, although the speeches were extremely loud at times--- there is a very heavy-duty sound system set up throughout the protest zone.  There was some violence in the days before I arrived, but it was trivial compared to similar events in other countries.  The barricaded area has become a "protesters' market" of sorts.  You can buy anti-government shirts and accessories, other clothes, cell phones, sunglasses, flashlights, miniature blowtorches, soldering irons, rifle scopes, and amazing street food of course. Convenience stores, however, are refusing to sell alcohol in this area until the protests are over.   Most of the protestors don't seem like the drunken-rioter types, but it's a good measure nonetheless. 

I did hear a a couple of explosion-type sounds last night, but it turns out that someone was unplugging the microphones before shutting down the sound system. 

Next Stop: Thailand

In a couple of days, I'll begin a relatively-unplanned 5 month trip to Southeast Asia. Fortunately I have a friend and some work opportunities in Chiang Mai, so that will likely be my home base for most of the trip. Beyond that, I hope to see as much of the country as possible, and hopefully trek into Cambodia and Myanmar.