Re-Reading a Good Page: Chiang Mai Round Two

Coming back here was probably the most whimsical decision I've ever made. I booked a flight last Wednesday afternoon and landed in Bangkok the next day. From there I took some very impressive public transportation across the city to the bus station. By sunrise Friday morning I was in Chiang Mai. Within a few blurry hours, I managed to catch up with some friends, get settled in my old apartment, and jam with a couple of bands. 

The following afternoon I was in a house on the countryside, surrounded by rice paddies. A friend had invited me there for a German bbq party. I was a sleepy, jet-lagged mess for most of it, but it was a great time nonetheless.

Doubt: The Inevitable Consequence of Spontaneous Travel 

I woke up Sunday morning in a panic—I just left, barely told anyone, and didn't even book my ticket home. The sketchy Thai energy drink from the night before probably added to this. To make the situation worse, I woke up to what sounded like gunshots, which can make the mind wander pretty quickly in a country that has gone through certain political changes that are best not discussed here (it turns out the sounds were fireworks, which were part of a Buddhist funeral ceremony). On top of this, people at home might find it kind of weird for any guy to just pack a bag and go to Thailand on a few hours' notice (even though Chiang Mai does not align with most westerners' perspectives on this country). Fortunately, I've never cared much for what people think. It was nonetheless a rushed decision, and the seeming ridiculousness of it had hit me hard.

I made some anxious calls home for reassurance, and then went for a short walk along a country road. The homeowner's dog (who connected with me unusually well) joined along. Once I took in the landscape and had some friendly interactions with local people, I was reminded of why this part of the world had occupied my mind for the past year. 

Jack the dog looking out at the rice paddies

Why Come back?  Why Chiang Mai?

Travel is a good thing—whether it's thousands of kilometres of away or a two-hour drive from home. It's a way to step back, put yourself in another context, detach, and reset your perspective. 

There are push factors and pull factors. In short, I found my self in a situation at home in which there was a lot of free time and little to do. I didn't take on the usual summer teaching gig, and it was too early to start preparing for the upcoming school year. Push factors didn't necessarily determine the location, so I'll elaborate more on the latter. 

To me, Chiang Mai is a familiar place, but familiarity is not enough to warrant travelling halfway around the world to stay for just a couple of weeks. Sure, I could have gone somewhere closer to home, but anyone—regardless of age or gender—who has spent time here would easily understand the pull factors. Also, a trip like this is not nearly as expensive as it seems; the costs are cut by eating local food, knowing how to get around, and getting modest accommodations. 

Remembering how to speak some basic Thai has had great benefits. It doesn't hurt to get cheaper transportation by giving the driver the impression I'm an expatriate who knows the deal here. Locals seem to have a lot of respect for foreigners to try to learn the language, and my attempts to communicate often turn into mini-language lessons.

It's currently rainy season, which is actually a pleasure to experience. It rains on and off, so the air is cooler than what I came to know last time around.

I don't want to give the impression that this place is perfect. It's not, but it's certainly somewhere worth revisiting. 

You can't walk a few minutes in the city without seeing temples like these. There are literally hundreds of them.

Highlights: Music, Food, and Friends

This city is bursting with live music. You can see underground Thai rock bands, reggae bands, jazz bands, and metal bands (the plural is intentional) all on a weeknight, and usually within walking distance of each other. This isn't even a tourist thing; it's part of the culture. 

I can't really describe the feeling of walking back into the Pentatonic Rock Bar (a venue so distinct that I wrote a lengthy post about it last year). It's truly a place like no other. Despite being open nearly every night and having countless guests (both foreign and local), the musicians and owners remembered me by name. I've been there a few times since being back, and couldn't help but notice that the musicians I've come to know here have become even more refined and skilled.

Cover Band at Pentatonic Rock Bar

Catching Up

In a short time, I was able to catch up with old friends and make new ones. Connecting with both travellers and expats is not difficult if you share perspectives on life. Reconnecting with Thai friends was also refreshing. Despite some language barriers, the friendships are still there—bound together largely by food, music, or both.

The hospitality of Thai people is consistently over-the-top. After a few days here, the family of a student I taught last year took me for a traditional Khan Tok dinner and show. When I was dropped off, they offered to let me stay at their condo in Bangkok, as I'd pass through there on the way home. 

My food vendors had their own way of showing they were happy to see me. On my first evening back, I visited my favourite food stand, and the whole family who works there remembered me. It was an oddly emotional experience. Now the father keeps texting me confusing emoticons and pictures of parades. And, in keeping with last year's tradition, the friendly couple who makes fresh orange juice continues to teach me a new Thai word or two upon each visit to their stand.

Khao Soi (Northern Thai noodles) and Moo Sa Te (pork skewers with peanut sauce)

Final Thoughts after a Week of Reflection

Travelling and speaking highly of a place so far away sometimes gives the impression that I don't appreciate where I'm from. That's not at all the case. It's important to be grateful for what you have, where you're from, and the people around you who care. I'm becoming more and more grateful for these things as the years go by. It's also important to take opportunities when they present themselves. It was a hasty decision, but a good one. Gut instinct at its finest. 

As cheesy as it might be, I'll end this off with a quote from St. Augustine: "the world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page."

Not everyone can easily travel, but the quote still holds a powerful truth. 

I've been fortunate enough to see a few interesting sections of the book, and this page is one worth reading twice.  

Alas, I can't stay here long-term, but it's good to be back. 




Next stop is likely a short visit to Mumbai to see my sister and some friends. 



Stay tuned.