Intro to Life in Chiang Mai

I think I can get used to this place. The people are over-the-top friendly, there is always something to do, the pace of life is relaxed, there is amazing food everywhere, and it is very easy and to get around. 

Thailand is often called “the land of smiles,” although that is not true in all parts. Ethnic/religious conflict in border regions and the recent political protests challenge that notion. Chiang Mai, however, is likely the happiest, most “smiley” place in the country.  I’ve met people who have travelled throughout the Thailand, and they all seem to agree.  It's as if everyone willingly pays a kind of smile-tax to everyone else during nearly every interaction; at least that’s how my Canadianized brain interprets it. 

Fresh orange juice is just a short walk from my door, and it's
always served with a genuine smile.

There is a weekend market right outside my apartment.
One of the coffee stands also happens to be an open mic station.

The pace of life and the social priorities here help to explain the smiles.  Overall, people here are easy-going. Life is taken day-by-day (perhaps to an extreme).  One of the most commonly-used Thai words is "sabai," which means “relaxed/comfortable/easy-going.”   Just say it slowly—sabbbaaaiiii—and you just might feel more relaxed.    Perhaps we need an English equivalent. “Relax” and “chill” don’t have the same effect.   Chiang Mai is “sabai” in the truest sense. A friend of mine who previously lived here for several years says that this region has a very relationship-oriented culture, rather than the task-oriented culture that is most common in the west. People--both local and foreign--spend much more time socializing and eating together than what I've experienced in Canada. The "I'm too busy" excuse doesn't seem to work here.  Things still get done, but healthy relationships and social lives are a priority.

I can’t say enough about the food, so I’ll wait and dedicate a lengthy post to it—with lots of pictures of course.  For now I’ll say that in this city, you can count on finding great food virtually anywhere, from street vendors, to humble roadside shacks, to riverside restaurants. There are also high-end grocery stores for the more discerning clientele. In these places, you can find imported wines, fine cheeses, and even Canadian lobster. For now, I'll stick with the simple and affordable options (i.e. $1 for a meal). Cheap, good food is everywhere, and it's hazardous in a way. This is not because there is any danger in the food itself (if so, the spice probably takes care of that); it's the fact that sights, smells, and variety can make one eat excessively.  Fortunately, the weather here is ideal for walking.

There are other, more significant, hazards of course. They include the iffy sidewalks, which start, stop, and vary in elevation at random; the steep curbs, which stand at nearly a foot in height, and have a 70 degree slope; and the vehicles—particularly motorbikes—which, although they are relatively cautious of pedestrians, have been known cause some serious damage.

Aside from walking (and dodging motorbikes), my favourite mode of transportation is the Songthaew. These little red taxi-buses are extremely cheap, and are the safest, most affordable way to get around.  I went to a guitar shop about 20 minutes away for just over $1 Canadian.  When taking these, you can either get in the front with the driver, or hop on a bench in the back. Just don’t be surprised if the driver picks up other people who are going in your direction.  I see it as a great way to meet new people at random.  The first time I took a Songtaew, the driver made a detour and picked up his wife. On another occasion, a driver's daughter was napping in the passenger seat (equipped with pjs and a teddy bear).  Once again, relationships are a priority here. 

Another way to get around is the famous tuk-tuk. They’re small, agile, and kind of funky (many have flashing multi-colour party lights inside).  They’ll do whatever it takes to quickly get you where you need to go.

Songthaew

Tuk-tuk

I've spent most of me time in the city.  It's not a massive metropolis like Bangkok, but it's big enough. The city and surrounding area have a population of approximately 1 million people. There is also a sizeable population of western visitors here, but unlike in some of the southern cities and islands, most aren't here to party and take advantage of the country's relative lawlessness. They're here to hike the mountains, visit the elephant sanctuaries, and experience the "sabai-factor."  With an abundance of schools in the city, many are also here to teach English and/or learn Thai. 

The countryside is just a short drive from the city.  I'm there right now. A large group of us (friends and friends of friends) spontaneously booked a resort at the base of a mountain. There are huts and tents; I opted for a tent. The resort has a massive on-site garden, the produce of which is used in its hut-style restaurant. There is also live music during the afternoon and evening, regardless of how many guests are here.  We were the only ones, so technically we had a private concert. Coupled with a six dollar/hour massage, and an average north-American can live like a rock star out here.

Camping Thai style. 

Just a 25 minute drive out of the city

I've been able to do and see a lot in this first week, and I owe most of it to some friends from home who are living and teaching here for the year. They've shown me around, arranged for me to live in the same building, and introduced me to the administrators at an international school just steps from my door. 

This is my apartment building. It's similar to a guest-house/hotel.  My room includes

2 beds, a fridge, mini-kitchen, washroom, wifi, a/c (which I have yet to use),  and cable tv (what's that?).
For $185 Canadian per month, I think I can deal with it.